Swazi myths debunked Girls parade during a Reed Dance ceremony held in Swaziland recently. Picture by Bongani Ndlovu
Girls parade during a Reed Dance ceremony held in Swaziland recently. Picture by Bongani Ndlovu

Girls parade during a Reed Dance ceremony held in Swaziland recently. Picture by Bongani Ndlovu

Bongani Ndlovu recently in Swaziland
UNBELIEVABLE myths and misconceptions have been peddled about Swaziland with the most common being that women there walk around bare-breasted in their traditional regalia.
I travelled to Swaziland over the weekend hoping to meet the bare breasted young ladies – as a man who is in search of a bride. These imaginative images were vivid in my head as an avid follower of the popular Umhlanga Reed Dance that is held annually in Swaziland.

When I crossed the Swaziland border called Ngwenya, southwest of the country, my eyes were searching for the bare-breasted ladies, but alas, that was not to be. I was surprised that there was no such thing.

To their utter amazement, the Swazi said there was no such thing and asked where I had heard such preposterous things. I told them that the whole world knew about this code of dress, only to be told by one local that it’s the whole world except Swaziland.

They took time to explain that if one wanted to see these women, one should attend the Umhlanga Reed Dance or any traditional ceremony. They explained that not all women walk around bare-breasted even at traditional ceremonies. Married women are the ones whose breasts are covered while virgins or those looking forward to getting married have their breasts out for all and sundry to see.

When they hold their ceremonies, young girls dance, and if a man or suitor is impressed by what they are doing, they get onto the dance floor and dance with the young woman. However, this is forbidden when married women are on the dance floor.

I was told of stories of men who attend these ceremonies with their wives to see the dances and get carried away in the process forgetting that they are with their wives. One amusing story is about a certain man who failed to contain his excitement and went on to dance with the girls – much to the chagrin of his wife. When the man gained his composure, he returned to his wife in embarrassment, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Fortunately for me, I attended the Amangwe celebrations held in Manzini province and saw the bare-breasted girls. True to their word, it was at a traditional ceremony. As a man looking for a bride, I asked what the bride price was in Swaziland. My tour guide, Themba Zwane, told me that marrying a Swati woman was simple, with the “cheapest” being worth 16 head of cattle. This showed how much they value their women.

What was impressive was that the people there, in their modern ways, have not lost their cultural values as compared to most people in Southern Africa. The notion that Swaziland is a nation that has backward people who always wear traditional regalia in their everyday life, is not true.

They wear the colours of their flag as wrappers as an identification for the people. Their nightlife is vibrant as one can see bright lights and youths going out for a drink or two with friends and family. The people are quite friendly as they are quick to help — especially when they see that you are a tourist.

Maybe, this is a leaf that they took from their King in his 2014 message where he said tourism remained a critical sector in revenue generation for the country through the use of their hospitality industry, scenery and game.

My trip to Swaziland has made me think of going back, but now for the Umhlanga Reed Dance. After the realisation that women in Swaziland do not wear traditional regalia all the time but on special occasions, now I can look forward to the reed dance with an open mind.

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