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Melissa Mpofu, [email protected] 

THE mantra has always been to embrace spontaneity and “just go”. Take a drive to a new destination, secure accommodation on the fly and simply unwind. 

 Often, we deprive ourselves of enjoyable moments under the misconception that we lack the time or financial means, when in reality, it boils down to effective planning. 

This allure of a spontaneous road trip transformed into an unforgettable holiday experience for my family as we explored the breathtaking beauty of Nyanga. In the spirit of “just go”, we embraced the opportunity to relax, recharge and create lasting memories in this scenic Zimbabwean destination famed for cascading waterfalls. 

As the festive season unfolded, my mother’s desire for a getaway became apparent and the idea of a vacation in the Eastern Highlands quickly gained favour. Despite my initial reservations about revisiting a destination we had explored twice over five years ago, Nyanga proved to be a hidden gem waiting to be rediscovered. 

Tasked with booking accommodation, I sought recommendations from a well-travelled acquaintance, Walter Wanyanya, who is famed for exploring various local destinations on a motorbike, who spoke highly of a local booking agent. This connection led us to explore options beyond conventional bed and breakfasts (BnBs), eventually steering us toward Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZimParks). Their affordable, well-maintained self-catering lodges with daily housekeeping, starting at US$75 for two-bedrooms, offered the perfect blend of comfort and nature, surpassing the city-centric alternatives priced at US$200.

 

While it is crucial to stay in a clean and secure lodging, it is equally important not to overspend on accommodation, considering that most of the time will be spent exploring the destination. Allocating more budget towards engaging activities ensures a focus on creating lasting memories rather than extravagant lodging expenses. 

With accommodation secured, our attention shifted to the essence of the journey — exploring Nyanga. Embarking on the Bulawayo-Mutare route, we surprised relatives along the way, enriching our road trip experience. A timely call to the lodge revealed a hiccup in our booking, prompting swift action from one of the hosts, Sharon who secured our preferred accommodation at Rhodes Lodge upon arrival. 

Eight hours later from Bulawayo, we arrived in Nyanga, greeted by the breathtaking view of Rhodes Dam from our lodge. To be expected, the weather conditions were chilly as the region’s elevation and mountainous terrain contribute to the chilly climate. Thus, the charm of a self-cooked meal and a cozy fireplace set the tone for our five-night Nyanga adventure that was extended to six. 

While many avoid cooking during holidays, sometimes it proves advantageous as it allows you to enjoy a home-cooked meal, steering clear of the potential disappointment of less appealing restaurant options. Past experiences, like those during our last visit, influenced the family’s reluctance to dine out. However, to maximise the holiday experience, it is essential to venture out and savour local dishes offered by expert chefs. For instance, a visit to Nyanga would not be complete without relishing the expertly prepared trout from Nyanga Fish Deli. 

After a restful night, we awoke to the breathtaking sight of Rhodes Dam, enjoying a leisurely breakfast on the veranda overlooking the serene waters. This served as a fantastic start to the day, energising us for the upcoming adventures of navigating the mountainous terrains. 

The visit to Nyanga and residing at the park’s lodges provided the added bonus of encountering the First Family, also on holiday there. Their presence underscored our choice of a perfect family getaway destination. 

The initial item on our itinerary on the third day was a visit to the Mtarazi Falls, driven by my mother and siblings’ desire to partake in the highly acclaimed skywalk. Before delving into the thrill of the skysalk, we embarked on an 800m walk to explore the stunning Mtarazi Falls, the highest waterfall in Zimbabwe, from various vantage points. Among the views was a spectacular view over Honde Valley which made the walk enjoyable and memorable. 

As we strolled back, the distant screams piqued our curiosity, leading us to discover that they emanated from individuals engaging in the skywalk and skyline (zipline) activities. This heightened our family’s interest, sparking a collective desire to experience the exhilarating adrenaline rush. 

After completing the tour of the falls, we took a short break before embarking on another walk to explore the Far and Wide activities. 

Upon arriving, we were warmly greeted by a friendly team who shared their price list and suggested strolling by the lawn near the activity starting point to determine our preferences. The adventurous members of the family (everyone except me) enthusiastically chose the skywalk at US$50, while my two siblings went for the combo experience of skyline and skywalk priced at US$100. 

Opting for the familiar skyline at US$80, given my previous experiences in Victoria Falls and Durban, seemed like a suitable choice. However, my fear of heights became apparent when I had to traverse one of the suspension bridges to access the skyline. Walking on the bridge became one of the most daring activities I’ve ever attempted. Progressing slowly, each glance downward intensified my heart rate, prompting me to avoid looking down for most of the way. 

Eventually, I acknowledged the futility of not looking down, realising that embracing the thrill required pushing myself to gaze below. The skywalk consists of two bridges — the 30m one that takes you over the Lip of the Falls and the other, 90m that is above the entire falls. If you have ever dreamed of walking mid-air, then this is certainly for you. 

The family then proceeded to traverse the 90m bridge, showcasing their courage while I observed. Once they completed the bridge crossing, it was time for the skyline adventure. Accessing the starting point required an uphill walk, supposedly a 10-minute trek that felt like an eternity. Initially thinking the guide’s suggestion to choose our pace was due to his fast walking, I soon realised it was to accommodate the considerable distance. Despite the challenge, anticipating the rewarding experience ahead, we forged ahead with determination. Upon reaching the starting point, my heart raced once again as I comprehended that this was no ordinary feat. In contrast to previous zipline experiences, this one promised a much deeper and thrilling descent. The activity connects one to the natural world, Mtarazi waterfall and sky around you as the wind blows through your hair and adrenaline pumps through your veins. After all, this was the second highest waterfall in Africa (after the Tugela Falls in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa which are 948m) at an estimated height of 772m. 

My siblings took the lead, embarking on the adventure with admirable composure. Following their successful descent, it was my turn and the experience was nothing short of extraordinary. The panoramic view of the Mtarazi Falls and the surrounding mountains added an exhilarating dimension to the already thrilling adventure. 

The day’s experiences left everyone thoroughly satisfied, marking it as the highlight of the trip. With contented hearts, we decided to call it a day. 

The following day brought a visit to the Nyanga Trout Research Centre & Hatchery, offering insights into trout farming and the unique experience of fishing and packaging our catch. From there, the scenic Nyamuziwa Falls, a multi-tiered waterfall located within the national park provided an idyllic spot to soak in the beauty, though navigating the challenging terrain required adventure-ready attire. 

Day five, our plans to explore Nyangombe Falls on the western tip of the Nyanga National Park were thwarted by rain, redirecting us to the Rhodes Hotel and its curio shop. The enchanting allure of the Nyangombe Falls compelled us to prolong our stay by an additional night, as the family was eager to delve deeper into the captivating beauty that had left an indelible impression during their previous visits. 

Undeterred by the previous day’s setbacks, we resolved to revisit the Falls, and our perseverance paid off as the weather co-operated. Navigating the challenging terrain on our descent to reach the Falls tested our mettle, but our efforts were richly rewarded by the refreshing embrace of the much-needed Nyangombe waterfall spray. Exhausted at that juncture, we unanimously agreed that unwinding by the Falls offered the ideal way to spend the day, immersing ourselves in the soothing ambiance created by the cascading water. 

My siblings and I rounded off the trip with a canoe adventure at the lodge just before sunset, all while our parents observed the excursion through their binoculars. Mastering the art of rowing and controlling the boat provided a memorable experience, enriching our collection of cherished memories from the journey. 

The formidable Mount Nyangani, though untouched, stood as a testament to the myriad activities Nyanga offers. 

Beyond the Falls and mountains, Nyanga unveiled itself as a family-friendly destination with world-class views. Picture-perfect spots abound, ensuring that memories captured here will leave others questioning whether we truly explored Zimbabwe.